Two Ways to Install a New Lawn
Seeding - the preferred method of establishing a lawn:
- half the cost of sod
- many wonderful seed blends available for any type of condition
- hydro seeding
- drop seeding
Sodding - when there is no time to wait for that instant green carpet:
- highly perishable
- requires 2 weeks of concentrated heavy watering after installation to assure its success
NOTE: Watering is the key!! Whether seed or sod, once installed it is imperative you maintain moisture in the soil for optimum results.
The preparation for your new lawn is the hardest part of the job. Proper grading is imperative for a long term properly drained and easy mowing lawn. New lawn installation may include any of the following:
- Round-up application - eliminates any existing weeds or grass
- Rough grading - we can provide custom blended soils or amendments to existing soil that enhance lawn performance while decreasing its dependence on water and fertilizers
- Fine grading
- Drop seeding
- Irrigation systems
If you have a choice, lawn installation is best done in the fall, late August to mid-October:
- fewer weeds
- great growing weather: sunny but cooler, warm soil temperatures, great rains
Spring and summer lawn installations are fine, but weeds are more rampant, and the heat and frequent summer droughts require constant watering while new grass plants are germinating.
Mowing is one of the most critical management practices that you will perform in the maintenance of your lawn. Either a reel or rotary-type mower will yield excellent results. A sharp mower blade is essential to ensure that the grass blades are not torn or bruised which permits disease entry and excessive water loss.
We prefer the rotary-type mower because it is easier to maintain and it will readily adjust to the recommended cutting height of 2 ½ to 3 inches. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade per mowing. If too much is removed, your lawn can be severely set back or even destroyed.
If your lawn does grow tall, raise your mower and reduce it to the recommended height gradually over a period of several cuttings.
We recommend that when mowing; collect your clippings only during peak periods of growth in the spring and fall. The newer generation of mulching-blade mowers has eliminated the need to bag grass clippings at all times. Instead, use your own judgment in removing or bagging clippings.
It is important that you only cut 1 inch off the top of your lawn so clippings will be small and can decompose quickly.
Your lawn will require infrequent but deep watering. This is essential to encourage a deep and vigorous root system. This type of root system will enable the lawn to withstand periods of drought and make the lawn strong enough to tolerate certain disease problems. There is one rule that will always yield good results and eliminate the guesswork from watering. Look at the grass blades; if they appear curled or needled, and the lawn shows signs of wilt, it definitely needs watering.
Frequent shallow watering will promote disease, encourage weed seed germination, and foster a shallow root system. As a rule, each area of turf will require watering for on-half to three-quarters of an hour.